Moving from kitsch to haute, the manager at Cielo Home had recommended that, if we like smells, we should visit The Perfume House. She warned us that it looked like a normal wood sided residential house on the outside but on the inside, it was special. She was right!
Chris Tsefalas and his wife of 57 years have amassed the "world's largest real fragrance collection" in the 3 front rooms of a home. And they're not kidding. I've been looking on the internet for 2 years for Guerlain's Acqua Allegoria Flora Neroli and they had it! Chris's wife introduced us to a small part of their collected canon - and we winnowed our favorites down to Cologne Germany's 4711 crisp clean fragrance, Serge Lutens line, Caron's Yatagan, Sacre and Un Trois Homme. I'm delighted with our visit because it gave me a chance to work on my New Year's resolution to"smell better."
The whole time, Chris, a dapper 80 year old, was in deep consultation with a man in chef's attire and woman about perfume, what to wear, how it smells, why to chose it, how he got here.
We finished the day with espresso and nutella crepe at Cafe de Machin (Cafe of That Guy), a perfect mashup of both high French culture and Eurail pass fare. As we walked back to the car, we peeked in the windows at the Perfume House to see the chef's hat and companion sitting on the sofa, heads nodding, Chris's hands moving in illustration.